A sudden shower cooling the air: the romantic smell of London after a rainsquall when water has washed away frivolity, leaving only a zesty and triumphant breeze with a soft echo of the storm. The strength of bergamot, cardamom and violet is tempered by birch tree and a dusting of patchouli.
Imagine yourself walking through a field of lilacs that just bloomed, that was basically how I felt when I tried Jacques Fath’s Lilas Exquis. Panouge Paris is in charge of creating fragrances for the brand as it does for Isabey, another niche brand that I never tire of recommending on my blog. In the case of Isabey, true floral notes were achieved, particularly gardenia, which is very difficult to obtain and the vast majority fail and end with an artificial scent. Something similar happened with lilacs, all the fragrances that I tested had an artificial smell far from the true one, so it caused me a lot of curiosity and I did not think twice when I saw that Jaques Fath had an exclusive fragrance of this flower.
Niche perfume brands are increasing more and more their participation in the market, but very few of them offer sample sizes to try them out, many times we do have to go to specialised perfumes stores that we have to be honest if you are not in London (or any big city) you would find it a bit complicated and in some cases expensive to get there, another factor is how many fragrances we can properly try in one go till our nose lose track of everything. There are so many brands, many olfactory families, notes, sillage, etc that trying to select one is basically a really a hard work
L’Orée du Bois is originally a dress designed by Jacques Fath for Rita Hayworth’s wedding trousseau, The fashion experts probably know very well who Jacques Fath was but for the ones who doesn’t he was one of the top post war fashion designers together with Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain sadly he died quite young due to leukemia, the fashion brand halted production and now is only Jacques Fath Parfum that keep the house alive. Continue reading “Perfume Review: L’Orée du Bois by Jacques Fath”
Some time ago I reviewed Fleur Burlesque by Vilhelm Parfumerie and mentioned about the feminine inspiration that fragrance has from La Belle Epoque and the Moulin Rouge can can dancers, today following the line we jump to the beginning of the 20’s with a unisex scent that intends to catch the atmosphere of those years. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Chicago High by Vilhelm Parfumerie”
“Paris in 1988. A secret cult of women. Matisse’s La Danse. Ritual dancing, whispered sounds, the ecstasy of burning skin. A maddening collision of ice cold pear juice and chili” One of the latest releases from the house Vilhelm Parfumerie is Body Paint a quite interesting story different to all the perfume releases back in 2020. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Body Paint by Vilhelm Parfumerie”
A romantic and joyful scent inspired by the white lily. Sparkling floral notes at the top merge perfectly with the floral heart, giving way to the base that subtly incorporates elements such as benzoin and vanilla. Continue reading “Perfume Review: MyLO by Laboratorio Olfattivo”
Another journey with Escentric Molecules from the pair that remained to try and review and complete the whole family till 06 shows up, a really nice concept in perfumery creative and that managed to became a cult perfume brand. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Molecule 04 and Escentric 04 by Escentric Molecules”
We have a Molecule 03 which is basically the main molecule in this case, Vetiveryl Acetate, an hybrid molecule, half-natural, half-synthetic. It is a fraction of vetiver oil, distilled from the roots of an Indian grass, which is then ‘crossed’ with acetic acid to remove the bitter and leathery aspects of the root. Then we find Escentric 03 that is a fragrance made with this particular note. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Molecule 03 and Escentric 03 by Escentric Molecules”
“Ancient Carthage held a position as one of the capitals of maritime trade with ships transporting precious and rare scents of far off lands. From this quest of mysterious and unknown elsewhere, Isabey created a distinctive perfume for a man who knows how to overcome wild lands.
L’Ambre de Carthage is a modern masculine fragrance symbolising the spirit of long, challenging journeys and adventures.” Continue reading “Perfume Review: L’Ambre de Carthage by Isabey”
“Unflinching, exquisite femininity. Inspired by La Belle Époque. A woman, alive in the spotlight at the Moulin Rouge, enchantingly a glow in the soft candlelight of Maxim’s.” The name and the short description were enough for me to feel tempted to try out this fragrance and sure enough it didn’t disappoint. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Fleur Burlesque by Vilhelm Parfumerie”
This vegan perfume is for the spirited, fearless, mystical and audacious.
A strikingly modern blend of red rose, ylang ylang and jasmine crossed with a soothing cloud of just-brewed coffee, fresh cream and Sichuan pepper – sustainably harvested from the foothills of the Himalayas. For the rebels. The thinkers. And the leaders. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Ylang Ylang Espresso by Floral Street”
First created by Isabey Paris in 1944 in New York, Tendre Nuit (Tender night) is remembered for its romantic name, like a whisper. The poetic and flamboyant plum colour of the bottle combined with voluptuous night Rose and animal Ambrette seeds fragrance are inspired by emotions of a tender and passionate night.
“It is 3 am in Paris, she is sitting on the edge of her bed in a room filled by sensations. Love is floating in the air, sweet and sensual like a night Rose. A warm breeze from the balcony thru the room is caressing her skin. The night is tender, her life is a dream.” Continue reading “Perfume Review: Tendre Nuit by Isabey”
In 1925, Julien Viard designed for the Perfume House Isabey, a little jewel made of crystal called “Bleu de Chine”. Only few pieces of what was considered as collectors’ items, are still available; one of them at the “Museum of Perfume” in Grasse, France. The same year, Ludwig Moser designed another bottle, with a Crystal Master from Karlsbad: a dark amethyst with hand painted patterns in a lozenge shape bottle. When the decision to produce a contemporary version was taken, it was not possible to use the original name as it was, in the meantime, registered by another company. However, the spirit of “Bleu de Chine” was captured by realising an exceptional scent treasured in a bottle that was treated with a unique process known as “Sublimation”. The dark blue colour and the unique decor have been kept on the new edition. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Fleur Nocturne by Isabey”
When Isabey Paris created Prends-moi (take me) with a misspell on its label as ‘Prends-Mois’ in the early 30’s, it was one of the last perfume created for North American market, with a minimalistic design. In the 30s it was a bold move to name a perfume Prends-moi (take me) but Isabey was a daring house.
Prends-moi (take me) is now relaunched among the iconic perfumes of Isabey Paris. But much more than a simple fragrance’s revival, Prends-moi (take me) is an ode to love and passion. This is why the strong and emblematic red colour, a symbol of desire, is used. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Prends-Moi by Isabey”
Not long ago I shared my thoughts on the well famous Molecule 01 and Escentric 01, the first members of the Escentric Molecules collection, now is the turn for the 02 pair that also had quite a success. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Molecule 02 and Escentric 02 by Escentric Molecules”
Niche perfumery has increased in popularity in the last couple of years thanks to some niche houses that opened up the way for more people to discover them and enjoy alternatives to the massive consume market. One of those brands was clearly Escentric Molecules with the 01. Molecule 01 and Escentric 01 were very popular back in the day, anyone following British beauty youtubers probably remember the hype back then. Over hyped/promoted products tend to put me off to try them out, but then this year I got closer to the brand with the release of Molecule 05 and Escentric 05 and specialised perfume writers and friends who tried it suggested me to review the 01 and 02 range because “they were amazing” So here we are. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Molecule 01 and Escentric 01 by Escentric Molecules”
“A fragrance is a powerful tool creating sensations and imagery, evoking visions, feelings and thoughts,” says The Perfumer’s Story founder Azzi Glasser, who has created unique scents for Helena Bonham Carter and Orlando Bloom. I was lucky enough to already review After Hours and this time I want to share this review of another gem from this fantastic niche perfume house. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Fever 54 by The Perfumer’s Story by Azzi”
One brand that I love to discover each time I have a chance to get a bottle in my hands is Probably Atelier Cologne, I have actually being using Orange Sanguine pretty often during the hot summer and I also enjoy it during the autumn season. So when a limited edition bottle came out with a fragrance that I never tried before I was truly excited. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Clementine California x Quentin Monge by Atelier Cologne”
With father’s day around the corner or any man thinking on a special fragrance for his wedding day today I wanted to share my thoughts about this masculine perfume from the niche French house, Isabey. Sir Gallahad was quite a surprise. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Sir Gallahad by Isabey”
First launch in 1924, “La Route d’Emeraude” The road to the Emerald Triangle from Isabey was designed by Julien Viard, in a faceted bottle and a jewel-like case, reminiscent of the splendor of the Far East. This perfume is inspired, with a touch of nostalgia, by the journey leading to the “Emerald Triangle” (Thailand, Laos and Cambodia), filled with the scents of Jasmine Sambac and blooming flowers. Many Orient lovers took the path to these faraway lands and experienced sensations that are recaptured in this re-edition of the mythical perfume. Gold leather (cordovan) effect, distinctive of La Route d’Emeraude previous designs, has been preserved. The fragrance has been slightly changed. Continue reading “Perfume Review: La Route d’Emeraude by Isabey”
Not every day we come across products from Iceland, a country that if it became one of the most popular tourist destinations in recent years but keeps a lifestyle and artistic point of view very different from the rest, so when I discovered Andrea Maack and her perfume line I couldn’t resist and here we are. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Smart by Andrea Maack”
Launched in 1926, Le Gardénia is considered as one of the most prestigious of its kind in the world. Among the rarest sixty fragrances in the book “Scentfully Precious” of J-M Martin-Hattemberg, Le Gardénia is known for its distinguished match of bottle drawn by Julien Viard and jewel case-like box elaborated by Sorys. Isabey Gardenia is the ultimate, splurge-worthy, Rembrandt of Gardenia Scents. Luminous and sensual, this captures the true essence of this bewitching bloom. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Gardénia by Isabey”
In the last years we have seen the massive production perfume brands releasing flankers after flankers, new versions of what it used to be good perfumes and very few new in fragrances have absolutely nothing new to surprise the demanding and every day more exigent customers, so the niche perfumery became more and more attractive to people looking for something different and here is one of those wonderful niche perfume houses: Floral Street Continue reading “Perfume Review: Wonderland Peony by Floral Street”
We accumulate memories through the smell of that there is no doubt, whether meals, places, people, special moments are recorded in our memory many times through notes that many times we do not know what they are called but when we automatically feel transported, this is one of the great wonders of perfumes and today I want to share with you two releases that would bring some memories to you or you would leave that memory in someone. A new gender-inclusive Fragrance line that weaves a narrative from mislaid memories, childhood dreams and long-forgotten hope; STORIES by Eliza Grace is a journey for the senses. Continue reading “Perfume Review: Stories by Eliza Grace”