Perfume Review: Molecule+ Collection by Escentric Molecules

In 2006, Escentric Molecules launched Molecule 01, a single aroma-molecule in a bottle. The molecule was Iso E Super, an abstract synthetic in a lab at IFF. Now Molecule 01 gets a plus one.
In three iterations, it is paired with a single scent ingredient: Mandarin Patchouli and Iris.

Escentric Molecules became one of the most iconic perfume brands in a very competitive market, Geza Schoen innovated with a very simple and minimalist concept in perfumery but at the same time sophisticated and original. Molecule 01 became a cult scent since it was released and now the new concept of adding another note, just one, still not olfactory pyramid just two notes, this new concept sounded really interesting and risky as M01 has many lovers so the new fragrances needed to be up to the high expectations people would have about them. The Molecule 01 + Collection is unisex.


M01+ Mandarin is probably my favourite from the three, when you spraying it you feel the splash of fresh citrus and sweet typical from the mandarin but we are not talking about the juice, the smell is closer to the moment you start peeling the mandarin that splash from peel is citrus but it hold a different sweater and concentrated scent that the actual fruit, many times I walked in a room and could tell that someone is or have been eating mandarins because that special smell from the skin remains in the air. Combined with the Iso E super the fragrance starts very fresh and juicy, in the middle starts start to leave the juice a bit and reminds me a bit of he smell when you cut a leaf from the mandarin tree that’s when the woodiness and musky starts to take over and finally the mandarin fades. 

I’m normally not a fan of citrus scents they are not my style and they don’t last at all on my skin with very few exceptions, and this is one of the few exceptions I’m more than happy to have in my collection, is different it lasted very well (8-9 hours) has a nice sillage and projection, is not complex but is not ordinary either is different and has the particular smell of mandarin that I like. 


“Patchouli is a unique natural.Unlike 99% of perfume ingredients we associate it with a particular period, with the sixties and seventies and that bohemian spirit. It has a cool, rather aloof woodiness to it. I love it for its moody beauty. I’ve used two qualities of patchouli here. The biggest chunk is Patchouli Coeur which is a very clean, soft patchouli oil fraction with the camphor-like top note removed. I have also included a patchouli oil from Indonesia to round it out with a little bit of a top note. The result is a sophisticated, clean patchouli that pairs fantastically well with Molecule 01.”

This one is also a lovely one, now the way the Patchouli is blended here is more a woody scent and considering ISO E Super is also a woody musk note the result we get a is a fresh, earthy woody scent, again long lasting with good sillage and projection, not complex at all, just a clean and sophisticated woody scent, even if you are not a big fan of patchouli I would recommend to give this a try because is not blended as normally mainstream fragrances are.   


Last but not least, we have the combination Iso E super and Iris, I remember before starting in perfumery I never managed to notice the smell of Iris, then I didn’t like it and once I understood I managed to love it.

Iris is that magical powdery note that gives any fragrance an extra, is not a strong note, si not something that you can smell like roses or jasmine. With this fragrance we have a woody powdery musk scent, a clean soapy wood. Iris is hard to explain because you would think is not there but if we take it out from the composition then the perfume is definitely not the same.

All the fragrances are available in 7.5 ml and 100 ml at the Escentric Molecules Website 

Evelin x     

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